Recollecting Japan after the quake
It has been an awfully long time since my last post and several things have happened to warrant a post.
In this year alone I have traveled to many places. First to Taiwan in February, Japan in March, then Singapore in May and now Indonesia this weekend.
The journeys I took made me realize that nothing is definite. You can plan all you want, but when the world decides to deliver you a curve ball you just have to make sure you are ready to face it head on. In Japan for instance, I traveled there with a huge gang. We were a group of 10, and those who have had this experience knows how hard it gets when you reach a crossroad and you have to make a decision. But we adapted. Accidents happened and we too just went with the flow and took it in stride. But when the earthquake and entailing tsunami broke out, we were less than prepared.
3.15p.m. – I was taken by surprise. I remember the moment vividly. I was on the train from Yokohama to Shin-Yokohama, expecting to see the Ramen Museum. We were barely out of the station when the train came to an abrupt stop. I was sitting down then so I wasn’t too phased. Then the earthquake started. It was really strong, although I have nothing to compare it to. The train rocked on its axes and we could see the power lines swaying from side to side. The most amazing thing of all was that everyone in the train were so calm and collected. I was the only one thinking WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?!? Seriously it was quite scary, but it’s the human physique. When I saw calmness, I started to relax. After nearly 1 minute of shaking, the train finally rested on its heels, and I breathed a sigh of relief.
3.17p.m. – There were a whole bunch of school kids playing away on their PSPs or Nintendo DSs, and they didn’t even stop. Then the announcement broke the air. I thanked the Gods that I had taken up Japanese previously and at least could understand bits and pieces of the announcement. Not fully but at least I got the idea. So it went along the lines of, we have just experienced an earthquake and we are now waiting for further instruction from the government agency as to whether it is safe to continue our journey. After the announcement, just like that everyone returned to their previous activities. I saw an old couple standing there waiting, so I just stood up and gave them my seat. Another middle aged lady did the same. We smiled at each other and quickly got acquainted.
5.00p.m. – We were chatting, me in my broken Japanese and English and she in her broken English and Japanese combo, when the aftershock hit. It was very strong for an aftershock, according to that lady, whom I forgot to catch her name. It happened several times throughout the 1 and a half hours we were stuck in the train. It was until then were we allowed to get out of the train and walk back to the station. By then it was drizzling a little and I was starting to run through options in my head. What was I going to do? I was stuck in the middle of Yokohama, some 35 km away from my hostel which was at Asakusa. It was really a very scary thought. And worst of all I was all alone and spoke what was left of my high school Japanese language. Damn.
The only photo I snapped while walking back to the Sakuragicho Station
5.15p.m. – I followed the lady back to the train station 桜木町駅（神奈川） and we both went to the toilet to relieve ourselves first. It was crazy at the station as many people were trying to get to public phones the mobile phone service was out. SMS service was still running but I think that so many people were trying to do so it clogged up the whole network. The middle aged lady then went in search of a taxi, but since I was on a budget (Japan taxis are well known for their notorious pricing) so I went down to try and catch a bus. I was at a loss, without a map or any internet connection of any sort I was completely on my own. I felt like crying but I knew that would bring me no where. So I prevailed and pushed on. I saw a guy dressed in a suit with a briefcase, everything on him looked okay so I thought he would be safe as a guide. I went up to him and tried to ask him how to get back to Asakusa, and I was lucky enough that he said he was going that way as well.
5.30 p.m. – Later I found out that he was a lawyer and his name is Masahira-san. He was very nice. At first I saw that he was freezing so I gave up one of my warmer packs for him as we were waiting for the bus. He was very very grateful. We waited and waited and it was slowly becoming nightfall, and cars were piling up on the road. We talked about all sorts of things, but because of the language barrier it became close to impossible to maintain conversation. In between, I kept trying to send sms to my other friends who were supposed to be at Disney Sea and Disneyland. I knew that Japan’s Disney land was built on reclaim land so I was quite worried since it might cause a sink in. They managed to sms me to say that they were fine, but I just couldn’t manage to send anything out.
6.00p.m. – After an hour at the bus stop, an officer from the train station came to inform us that there were no buses in service. Seriously after we have lined up for so long in the cold, and battling the winds only they decide to tell us. Great. Just great. We then walked up to the station to confirm the status of the trains, only to learn that the trains were going to be out of service till the next morning. I was going through all this in my head, calculating. 35km means 8 hours of walk non stop from where I was. The only way to contact the rest was to get back to the hostel. So there was nothing to it but to walk. Masahira-san looked at me and said, 35kms are you up for it? I said, well I don’t think we have any other choice, and sleeping in the train station was definitely not one of them.
6.15p.m. – So we began our trek. Many others were walking alongside us so it wasn’t too bad. It actually brought back memories of when I was back in Brisbane and there was a huge accident at Coronation Drive and caused the entire West side traffic to come to a standstill. So we walked. First we tried to find a convenience store because we needed juice in Masahira-san’s iPhone so that we can have a map to use (Google again saved us with Google-maps). We looked through 5 convenience stores, but all the battery packs were out. Yes, it was like the end of the world and it felt like so. Many areas were blacked out and the only source of light was of the headlights of cars on the road. I was actually starving by then but all the convenience stores were packed to the brim with people it was not logical to stop. I began munching on the Almond Tofu flavored Kit Kats that I bought specially for Aunty Nancy. But oh well, I am sure she will understand.
7.15p.m. – We walked non stop for about an hour before coming to a 7-11 on the opposite side of the road. I grabbed 2 bottles of Pocari-Sweat, 2 hotdogs, and 2 packets of chocolate bars, just for energy sustenance. 35kms was a long way off. We had only managed to make 5km mark after an hour. 6 more hours to go!! My legs were killing me, but there was nothing else but to just charge on. We both devoured a hotdog each and continued on our way.
On the way we passed by a bike shop, and I think the owners would be swimming in cash the next morning, like Scrooge, as I remember seeing only 3-4 bikes left on sale. Needless to say those were etremeely expensive models. We passed by restaurants where some people decided to stop for a meal first before continuing on their endless trek. I remember smelling the enticing flavors of KFC and all sorts of fast food eateries as we passed them by. Oh how good they smelled. Heavenly…
8.15p.m. – 2 hours on and we have finally reached the 10km mark. I was quite proud of myself as we passed many people along the way. Not only just women in high heels (I was again quite happy that I was in my Nike), middle aged people heaving for breath, parents with young kids, and so on… It was very chilling to see, but at the same time I saw the warmth of the Japanese, how much they were willing to help each other in the face of adversity. 7-11 was giving out free food, and drinks, some people were sharing drinks while walking, even strangers were passing around chocolate bars. It was very heart warming. I felt very safe and secure amidst all the chaos around. I still remember keeping track of the van next to me. It kept pace with us. We overtook him and he overtook us. It was a good marker to keep me in the game. I knew that if I kept pace with the van that I wasn’t falling behind. I strode along, wincing at every step along the way but there was nothing more that can be done. I had to push on. Masahira-san was about 175cm tall, so his stride was obviously much bigger than mine. Trying to keep pace with him was hard, and I had to slow jog at some points just to keep up. By the two and a half hour mark, Masahira-san was impressed. He asked me whether I trained in any sports. I said no but I did go to the gym few times a week to keep fit. He gave me two thumbs up. I was beaming with happiness.
9.00 p.m. – We reached the double bridges and boy was the wind blowing. It was so strong that I felt chills run down my spine, and I was already in my big coat. Masahira-san was only in his suit. I pity him. There were uphills and there were downhills, the pavements were uneven at spots and while I was trying to maintain motivated my brain was telling me to stop. It was quite hard to maintain the determination to go on. But I prevailed.
9.30 p.m. – It was almost pitch black by then and the only illuminations came from the headlamps of oncoming cars. It was a pity my camera battery was running flat. But then again I doubt I would have energy to take any photos for that matter.
Masahira Yukifumi san's namecard
10.00 p.m. – We finally reached Nishimagome Station 西馬込駅 (The last station on the Toei line). By then, every place we stopped at my legs would cramp up and my back felt like it was being contorted. It felt horrible. Masahira-san went and asked the train master whether there were any train lines open and to my utter delight the train straight back to my hostel area was open!! OMG… U would not believe how happy I felt then and there!! As the trains were going at a slow pace to avoid derailment due to uncountable amounts of aftershock, we waited for a good 15 minutes before one turned up (I know that many of us in Malaysia would say 15 minutes is nothing, but for Japanese standards it was quite something). And because we were the first few at the station, I actually got a seat, which I regretted later on. I quickly got Masahira-san’s name card in case I forgot his name, he got off at 3 stations before I did, and we bid our final goodbyes. I wish I had taken a picture with him. Just to remember him as my savior for that eventful day.
11.00p.m. – I heard on the announcement that the Asakusa line was now open. Meaning that I wouldn’t have to walk from the Asakusabashi station (some 2kms away) back to my hostel. So I quickly jumped train at Ginza station and walked as fast as I could (I would have run if I could as the crowds were getting denser by the moment), to try to get onto the Asakusa line. By that time all trains were free. Although all the Japanese there were still touching there cards on the machines with a confused look on their face when it didn’t go ‘bleep’. I couldn’t understand the hurried rattling of the announcement, so I quickly grabbed a person at the station and they told me that the trains on the Asakusa line were stopped again!!! The lady at the Ginza station was from the tourist agency, so she spoke English, she was so nice to provide me with a Tokyo map and highlighted the route I needed to take to get back to my hostel. That’s what I call the human spirit. But Damn. Now I have to go and line up again for the Toei line to Asakusa bashi station. No~~~
11.20p.m. – Finally reach Asakusabashi station 浅草橋駅 and I can seriously feel my jelly legs. And my back really felt like it was going to break. I never knew that my back played such an important role while one is walking long distance. Certainly do now. Got off the train and walked. Everyone was walking in the same direction, but I was limping a little by then. After taking a rest, I think the lactic acids in my legs were starting to take effect and I could feel the ground as if I were not wearing shoes. Any protruding element, rock or pavement, I could feel on the soles of my feet. And again I thanked the Gods I was not in some third world country. I walked another half an hour before reaching the hostel. On the way I found a 7-11 and tried to get some more food before I passed out. All the bread and drinks were gone. I had to settle for instant cup soups. By that time I think I was dehydrated (although I had downed two bottles of 500ml Pocari Sweat) and also a bit motion sick. But I managed to get back to the hostel.
12 a.m. March 12 – I finally reach the hostel. I was full of hopes thinking that the whole battalion would be waiting for me there and welcoming me home, but little did I know that they had a whole other charade on the other side. I was very disappointed when I didn’t see them in the hallway. In fact the whole common room was so empty it was chilling. Also with the TV in the background blaring out CNN. And I tell you I nearly wanted to sue CNN for broadcasting incorrect information. But that’s another debate altogether.
I went up to the room, and felt another strong aftershock. It was very very scary. So I went back to the common room. Chatted with other people, but at every door opening, my head would turn in anticipation. It wasn’t until some two hours later, almost half a bottle of yoko-yoko and massages later did they walk through those famous hostel doors and I thanked the Gods. Although when I saw only half the gang my heart dropped a beat. But that’s another story altogether.
Please find below the map of the route I took from Sakuragicho station 桜木町駅 all the way to Nishimagome station 西馬込駅 in Tokyo, the longest trek I have ever been on, but one that saved my life.
For a higher resolution version please go to the following link.
To sum it up, I walked a total of 20km. Not bad for an amateur gym goer. It took me 4 hours in total, but not bad considering it was in a disaster situation. I think~~ ^_^
